From March 6 to 9, OGSO ambassador Roger Schäli, Filippo Sala and Silvan Schüpbach made the first ascent of the central part of the Punta Pioda north face (3237m) – a steep and untouched line in the heart of the Bergell Sciora group.
This huge wall, long overlooked, had fascinated the team for years. Previous attempts had been halted by various setbacks, from injuries to difficult conditions. But this March, they set off for the Sciora hut with determination and heavy packs, ready to take on the challenge.
Four days on the wall
The team worked their way through technical slabs, loose rock and grueling aid passages. With each pitch, the exposure increased and so did the difficulty. They spent the nights in precarious bivouacs, battling exhaustion and the cold. On the last day, Filippo led the team through a descent gully and over mixed terrain to the summit – and finally into the sun.
A lesson in the mountains
Every expedition brings with it challenges that go beyond the actual ascent. A misunderstanding in the winter hut sparked an unexpected controversy and reminded the team that respect in the mountains goes beyond the climb. Lessons were learned, and the experience confirmed an important truth: conflicts should be addressed head on.
