Letters From Sophie Lavaud: June 18th, 2023

early morning leaving camp 1 photo@ Dawa Sangay sherpa

Dear friends,

How hard this mountain is! Damn Kinshofer!
Our acclimation is over. After the big snowfall that nailed us to the base camp, we were able to do a first rotation and sleep at Camp 1.

Unfortunately, this altitude camp is only at 4900 m, so not very effective to acclimatize. But this rotation allowed us a first break and a deposit of material.
Our small troop, François, Ulysse, Sangay, Imtyas, and Mingma were able to make a 2nd rotation and climb to camp 2 at 6100m.

I had a bad memory of last year which was confirmed this year. The corridor is appallingly long, with 1000 m of unending altitude leading to the foot of the Kinshofer wall. You still have to climb 150 m in rock with a dihedron, a section in an overhang, and exit on the ridge.

The tapered edge where only a few tents can hold… Slight consolation but not the least, the snow conditions are much better and therefore the face is less dangerous.
I love the words of Ulysses when he returned to base camp: “A fixed rope is not an elevator!”
We are ready to try the summit, inchallah…

Nanga Parbat base camp
18 June 2023

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