Dear partners and friends
I am very pleased to inform you that I have succeeded in a very beautiful first ascent on Roda Val della Neve in Bergell/Switzerland. I deliberately chose a very puristic style of ascent: Ground up, Solo & Trad, bolts for anchors only. In five days I found a challenging line along a crack system in the right wall section. I rate the new route “Tierra del Fuego” A2+ 6c for the lower part of the wall from around 350 meters vertical.
From there, the route becomes a lot easier and continues for another 250 meters vertical to the summit. And if you have never heard of the Roda Val della Neve – don’t worry! I felt the same way when Tom Bärfuss -a good climbing friend from Engadin- asked me for a joint multi-pitch tour in Bergell.
The mountain is a hidden pearl with two faces. In the direction of Albigna it shows itself with a broad and rounded back, while the Roda Val della Neve in the northern direction comes up with an amazingly mighty wall, whose compact rock casts its shadow all the way over the streets of the valley floor.
I was impressed from the beginning by this cold, forbidding wall.
Interesting fact: there’s a some very interesting historic routes like Niedermann (by M.Niedermann, E. Näf, U. Hürlimann, and P. Frei, 1975) or Nigg (by L Blättler, E. Neeracher, P.Nigg, 1986), which inspire especially with remarkable crack climbing.
Historical is also the wall book, in which also famous names like Romolo Notaris or local greats have inscribed themselves. But what interested me much more were the many sections of the wall where no one has climbed before.
In particular, the direct ascent in the steepest sector of the wall caught my attention. So my decision was quickly made to open a new line: “Tierra del Fuego”.
For me, the route also recalls once again the beauty of Switzerland. I’m fascinated by how adventurous spots can be found in my backyard.
For me it is clear that this will not be the last route in this southern valley of Graubünden.